Wine Advocate June, 2010

Sweetly perfumed with flowers and with black fruit candies that render a confectionary impression on the palate (and Sylvain Pitiot did not demur from my description: “bonbon-like”), the 2007 Clos de Tart manages to harmoniously integrate vanilla, caramel, and resin from new wood. Even more than in the corresponding 2008, fresh juiciness of cassis and black raspberry and a saliva-stimulating salinity lend this lift and enticement so that it doesn’t become another too-familiar modern-day exercise in mere dark berry jam on a new oaken shingle. Sandalwood and black tea contribute further interest. Judgments will differ depending on the degree to which one is attracted by the style of this polished and persistent confection of Pinot Noir, but it certainly reflects what Pitiot describes as “my intention – and my taste – (namely) always to harvest just before the limiting point of over-ripeness and excess is reached.” I would anticipate this showcasing its virtues and Pitiot’s ideal over the next 7-10 years, and doubt that the 2008 will ever be able to compensate for its relatively less charm, seductiveness, or seamlessness.

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An expressive and quite cool nose blends floral notes, discreet wood, spice hints and ripe black pinot and plum that seamlessly intermingle with rich, delicious and impressively concentrated big-bodied flavors that possess really lovely acid/fruit/tannin balance, all wrapped in a complex, serious and palate staining finish. The subtle influence of the stem tannins gives the very rich, indeed almost lush finish an appealing sense of lift. This displays excellent potential to develop over the next 10 to 15 years and it should last 30.

(bottled in April of 2009) Bright red-ruby. Liqueur-like black raspberry, mocha and spices on the nose, with a hint of dried fruits. Then opulent, sweet and highly concentrated on the palate, with cherry, mineral and licorice flavors sexed up by a note of molten chocolate. This lacks the peppery high notes of the young 2008 but the texture is more plush today. Finishes with very fine-grained tannins and enough energy to ensure an extended evolution in bottle.

The 2007 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked at 27hl/ha from September 6 with 13.66° alcohol, and matured in new oak for 18 months. It is consistent with the style of the vintage – relatively light compared to the “grumpy” 2006, offering vivacious cranberry, crushed strawberry and red currant fruit that intermingles with subtle oyster shell aromas. The palate is replete with sappy red fruit and, like before, there is a subtle Oriental element to this 2007: just a splash of sweet and sour toward the fleshy, smooth finish. One of Pitiot’s more approachable offerings. Enjoy this straightforward but enjoyable Clos de Tart over the next decade. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.

This attractive wine doesn’t have the focus or purity of its peers.  Red fruits linger in the glass like mist on a river; while the palate is soft, open, gentle and drinkable now, with wheat and aniseed mingling with the fruit.  The tannins and acidity are both attractively unforbidding.