The superb 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru confirms the promise it showed from barrel, unfurling in the glass with a striking bouquet of raspberries, rose petals, blood orange, black tea, spices and smoked meats. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, pure and ample, with a deep core of vibrant, searingly intense fruit that entirely cloaks its structuring chassis of satiny tannin, concluding with a long and captivatingly floral finish. More elegant and transparent than the richer and fleshier 2015, this is an exceptional vintage for Clos de Tart. That there are fully 27,000 bottles makes this one of Burgundy's rare confluence of quality and quantity.

This youthful, concentrated wine shows a charming exuberance halfway between the brooding power of the hotter vintages and the perfumed elegance of the '17: kirsch, currant and rose petals with a hint of peppery spice. The grapes were picked between 28th September and 3rd October to deliver a wine with the density to suggest that it is a vintage for keeping, yet the velvety texture that says it will drink well young. Almost ready now, this should last for 20-30 more years.