The 2020 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is brilliant, bursting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, peonies, rose petals, sweet spices, orange rind and incense. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's elegantly muscular and multidimensional, with terrific depth at the core, ample reserves of ripe, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. Seamless and integrated, it was blended in the summer of 2021 before returning to barrel to complete its élevage.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

This wine shows exquisite fruit and concentration at the village level. It received a light foot-treading; there is no whole cluster nor new casks, yet there is impressively forward cassis-scented fruit of great purity, almost 'crunchy' in the words of winemaker Alessandro Noli. Although it is eminently approachable, there is enough substance here for mid-term ageing. Marvellous.