Bright yellow. Licorice, crushed stone, lime and wild herbs on the nose, lifted by hints of quinine and ginger. Tactile, savory and intense, conveying terrific crushed-rock mineral definition for the vintage. Wonderfully concentrated and long, without any impression of weightiness. This wine represents a blend of 45-year-old vines and vines planted in 2007. Production here was 35 hectoliters per hectare, according to winemaker Brian Sieve.

The 2015 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru has a pleasant citrus, dried yellow flower, mango and basalt-scented bouquet that unfurls gradually in the glass. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, a more linear take on the vineyard with good tension, though I would have liked more terroir expression towards the finish. I think it will stretch its wings once in bottle.

Not much nose and a little box-ticking at this point. Quite introvert and unformed. (JR)