The purity of yellow citrus fruit here is stunning and there’s a distinctive, chalky wedge to the nose, too. The palate has a very elegant, sleek and contained feel with a strong line of acidity and creamy, lees-derived weight. This has the DNA of power and the length is exceptional. Regal. Try in 2022.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is performing well from bottle, revealing scents of green orchard fruit, white flowers, fresh pastry and toasted almonds. Medium to full-bodied, textural and succulent, it's lively and precise, concluding with a delicately chalky finish.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru felt pinched and a little reduced on the nose. However, the palate is built around a fine bead of acidity and good energy. It feels spiky toward the finish and needs more depth and rondeur . Too slight for a Corton-Charlemagne? At least there is freshness, and it does improve in the glass, but it falls below my expectations from barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Tank sample. Vines, bought in 2005, are the most easterly in this grand cru: Les Pougets (climat can be red or white). Behind the village. Some vines are 15 years old and some are 45 years old. Often one of the first vineyards they pick thanks to the southern aspect. 30% new oak. Ripe citrus that is almost honeyed in its intensity. Complexity of the savoury mealy nose from lees and oak. Big and rich in the mouth. Great presence and fullness but no fat, just muscle. Mouth-watering acidity on the finish means that everything is in balance just not in the least ready. All to come. Stony, almost prickly, aftertaste. (JH)