2017 Domaine de Montille, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Deep and dark with a substantial tannin structure, full body and coolness that suggests this is capable of long-term aging. But not charming at this stage. Bold, firm finish. Try in 2022.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru contains one-third whole clusters and is made with 40% new oak. It has a refined and detailed bouquet with mineral-rich red fruit, raspberry and cranberry, wilted rose petal note wafting in with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin. This is a more masculine and grippy Clos de Vougeot, lightly spiced with good density and grip on the finish. It will require five years or more in the cellar but should be worth the wait.

In contrast to its muscular and structured 2018 counterpart, de Montille's 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is already quite charming, delivering an inviting bouquet of plums, sweet berry fruit, dark chocolate and a deft touch of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's built around a ripe spine of acidity and powdery structuring tannins that gently assert themselves on the finish.