2009 Domaine de Montille, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Aux Malconsorts Christiane

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts Christiane is pure seduction. Last year I wrote that in 2009 there wasn't a huge difference between the straight Malconsorts and the Christiane. That was true then, but it is no longer the case. With time the wines have begun to show their respective terroirs, and are now quite different. The Christiane possesses dazzling richness and power in an extroverted, expansive style that is absolutely irresistible. There is so much fruit that the perception of tannin is virtually nonexistent, but there is plenty if structure for the Christian to age well for many, many years.

Good full red. Darker on the nose than the "regular" Malconsorts, with a strong soil character to the aromas of black fruits and flinty, smoky minerality. Bigger and denser than the Malconsorts but also more saline and earthy, and less open to inspection today, as its fruit sweetness is in the deep background. These two wines are remarkably different, with the Christiane displaying a much more muscular, powerful style and finishing with serious tannins. I should add that this very backward wine is also a bit hardened today by CO2, which makes it trickier to taste.