2017 Domaine de Montille, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Aux Malconsorts

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts is also showing beautifully, soaring from the glass with aromas of cassis, peonies, orange rind and dark berry fruit, with little hint of the tertiary complexity to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, but it has real depth and concentration at the core too, despite the charm of the vintage. The finish is long and penetrating.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru is entirely whole cluster fruit matured in 50% new oak. It has a backward and reticent bouquet, yet one can tell there are coiled up black fruit here, mixed with raspberry coulis and mulberry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with dense, slightly chewy tannin at first, grippy and assertive in style. Yet it manages to retain admirable balance with an engaging, quite saline, lightly spiced finish that fans out with style. Excellent.