This has a load of grapefruit and lemon and a flinty, reductive edge, as well as attractive, stony notes. Long, ethereal palate with a super juicy array of white peaches, lemon curd and yellow grapefruit. Beautifully fleshy and supple with pitch-perfect, balanced acidity. Very intense, long finish. Mouthwatering. Great wine, from 80-year-old vines. Drink over the next decade.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets offers up a nuttier, more reductive bouquet than the Folatières, wafting from the glass with notions of toasted bread, lime zest and crisp green apple. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and tangy, with a tense, tight-knit core, chewy dry extract and good grip on the long finish. It's one of the high points of de Montille's 2017 collection.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a very fragrant bouquet offering touches of honeysuckle, orange zest, crushed stone and later more blood orange aromas. The palate is balanced, linear and fairly conservative after the aromatics. Maybe this is beginning to close up? After an initial period when it seems buttoned down, this Pucelles blossoms with aeration to reveal a gorgeous, refined, spicy finish with impressive persistence. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

(these vines yielded 39 hectoliters per hectare in both 2017 and 2016, according to winemaker Brian Sieve): Pale, bright yellow. Captivating aromas of lemon drop and zest and flinty minerality, plus an emerging note of musky peach. Pure, concentrated yellow fruit flavors are given a light touch by firm acidity and underlying minerality. Offers a lovely balance of texture and vibrant citricity. The wine's brisk, slightly disjointed acidity extends the finish, which shows sneaky rising length and a petrolly nuance, not to mention terrific cut. This should enjoy a slow and graceful evolution in bottle. (The estate's firmly structured Corton-Charlemagne was a bit too disjointed to assess in the early going, with its firm lemony acidity clashing with some unfermented sugar. This fruit was picked very early but with 13.1% potential alcohol on August 28, owing to a storm in the forecast.)

Tank sample. 60-year-old vines. Half in large-format oak and half in 228-litre barrels. 25% new oak. Subtle smoky reduction. A little more so on the palate but has lovely texture and richness from the lees, all the while with intense crisp citrus at the core. Smart wine, with texture and precision and a long, long finish. Tight and stony at the very end. (JH)