The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens Cuvée Hubert will demand some patience, as it is one of the most potentially long-lived wines in the de Montille cellar. Revealing aromas of ripe cherries, cassis and licorice that mingle with hints of black truffle, dark chocolate and rich soil, it's medium to full-bodied, ample but tight-knit, with tangy acids and fine but firm, chalky tannins. Powerful and broad shouldered, it's a classic Rugiens in the making.

Very flinty nuances here with hints of white pepper and violet flowers. A thread of succulent, fine and juicy tannins carry very fresh and detailed red cherries. Long and seamless finish. Two-thirds whole clusters and 40 per cent new oak.

The 2017 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas 1er Cru has a clean, well-defined, terroir-driven bouquet that gains intensity with aeration. The beautifully proportioned palate delivers a fine bead of acidity, plenty of mineralité, and a precise, quite persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. Very fine and more-ish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.