The 2010 Corton Clos du Roi graces the palate with exquisite depth and sheer purity. Layers of seamless fruit emerge from this sublime, totally refined wine. De Montille used two-thirds whole clusters and 50% new oak barrels, but none of that stands out. It is the superb depth and purity of the fruit that elevates the Clos du Roi to its lofty position. This really leaves a strong lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2040. Etienne de Montille describes 2010 as similar to 2002, but with less acidity. He adds that 2010 is a vintage where the end result was less apparent early on than years like 2006 and 2007, where the wines turned out pretty much as originally expected. According to de Montille, there isn’t a huge difference between the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. That may be true here, but in my view it is not the case in a broader context. De Montille tends to pick early, and his wines in the cellar also finish their malos fairly quickly, which is how things played out in 2010 as well. Most of the 2010s had been racked into steel at the time of my visit, except for the Corton Clos du Roi, Clos Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts, Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts Christiane, which I tasted from barrel. The harvest started on September 20 and ran through the 28th. Some wines were lightly chaptalized. De Montille planned to start bottling in January 2012 with a handful of the entry-level bottlings. I also tasted the 2009s. I will have more to say in our April issue, but for now I can share that the wines have developed beautifully. De Montille’s decision to pick early certainly seems to have paid off. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

(two-thirds vendange entier ; 50% new oak; this and the subsequent wines were tasted from cask): Bright medium red. Slightly high-toned aromas of candied cherry, spices and underbrush. Round, ripe and broad, with a medicinal reserve giving the wine a classically dry aspect. But the wine's red fruit flavors blow by the ripe, building tannins. Not at all a sweet style of Burgundy, but subtle, long and soil-inflected.

Pale crimson. Quite earthy and autumnal (a rare note for 2010) on the nose. Polished and urbane. The fruit is not that obvious on this wine. Serious but a bit short of juice. (JR)