The 2017 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru matures with 50% whole clusters and 30% new oak. It has a very comely bouquet with open-knit red cherries, raspberry and wild strawberry aromas tinged with violet. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, good acidity, fine grip and backbone. The finish feels very long. This has the sense of authority you look for in this vineyard. Excellent.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Champans displays notions of red cherries, potpourri, dried herbs and rich soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, fine-boned and tensile, and while it's somewhat austere in profile its tannins are nicely integrated. It will likely flesh out with further élevage and time in bottle.

Much firmer than most people expect from Volnay, but this remains elegant, thanks to the fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. Good length. Try in 2022.

Bit of clay on limestone, below their Taille Pieds. 33% whole bunch. Barrel sample. Mid cherry. Richer on the nose than the Beaune Grèves. Riper and sweeter with a slight stony note. More stony on the palate, very fine tannins – finesse and freshness and the stems better integrated. (JH)