The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans is the one Volnay that is 100% whole cluster. Brian Sieve explained that these particular vines produce very little fruit: small berries with more wood than foliage on the actual vines (due to a misplanted rootstock 45 years ago!). But the silver lining, a least in this year, is that the hail did not do so much damage here as elsewhere. "There was good air flow and bunches less tightly packed so you could easily discard any unsuitable berries on the sorting table," winemaker Brian Sieve explained. It has an “airy” bouquet with more lift and floral scents compared to the Champans. The palate is medium-bodied with bright cranberry and tart red cherry notes, brittle but fine tannins with plenty of freshness on the pointed finish where the stem characteristic is just tangible. This seems to be a step up from the Champans this year, and may merit a higher score down the line.

(the only one of these 2013s that was vinified with 100% whole clusters; these degenerating vines produce tiny berries that are usually very ripe): Dark, full red. Seductive aromas of redcurrant and rose petal. Delivers lovely inner-mouth perfume, with flavors of raspberry, smoke and minerals lifted by peppery spices and flowers. Intense premier cru with enticing sweetness and excellent precision. Finishes with firm but fine-grained dusty tannins and noteworthy grip. Just 50% of normal production in 2013.

An intensely floral and spicy nose reveals notes of lilac, rose petal and cool red and blue pinot fruit aromas. There is a lovely sense of vibrancy and tension to the well-delineated and subtly mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that poses a dusty, youthfully austere and ever-so-mildly dry finish. In much the same fashion as the Grèves the balance isn't perfect but this is still an interesting effort.
– Burghound.com, Issue 58. Tasted: Apr 2015

100% whole bunch, 30% new oak. Good air flow and good lignification thanks to the age of the vines. No disease. Deep crimson. Rather subdued nose. Edgy and then as though polished tannins. Not a charmer at this stage though there is lots of energy. (JR)