(100% vendange entier ; 35% new oak; the crop level here was just 12 hectoliters per hectare): Moderately saturated bright red. Great delicacy and class to the aromas of tart red and purple berries, flowers, minerals and spices. Wonderfully silky, precise wine with superb inner-mouth floral lift. Perhaps most impressive today on the dry, long, rising finish, where the very suave tannins arrive late. "These vines are 45 years old but look and act like they're 70, carrying just one or two small clusters per vine," noted winemaker Sieve. Offers outstanding potential--another example of a 2015 Volnay wine with Côte de Nuits-like complexity and class.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Mitans, 100% whole cluster with 35% new oak, has a powerful, well-defined bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and pomegranate scents that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, perhaps not quite as charming on the finish as the Volnay Champans, yet with the substance to suggest that this will age easily over 15-20 years. Another very impressive wine from de Montille.

Vosges oak. 100% whole bunch (as always with these particularly old vines), 30% new oak. The vines, they think, are about 75 years old. Yield is unsustainably low. Really savoury and racy. Lovely satin texture and polish. Really appetising with a dry finish. (JR)