While I think the 2020 iteration is likely to turn out even better, Mortet's 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is fabulous. Soaring from the glass with scents of red berries, plums, blood orange, peonies, rose petals and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and velvety, with terrific concentration and a long, mouthwatering finish. Seamless and complete, despite its charming, elegant profile, it will warrant some bottle age.

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru comes from just 0.15-hectares of 60-year old vines, matured entirely in new oak. It has an impressive nose with fine precision. The whole bunch element is a little more visible here, lending an almost Dujac-like personality. Touches of loam and brown leaves percolate through the intense black fruit and it seems to gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little more lactic in texture compared to the Mazis which, going back and forth from one to the other, I find has more detail and delineation. There are hints of Earl Grey tea towards the finish and there is an exceptional long aftertaste. A wonderful Chambertin, though I just prefer the Mazis-Chambertin this year.