The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has quite a primal grapefruit and crushed stone scented bouquet that takes time to unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with orange rind and citrus peel, quite spicy, especially towards the finish with touches of stem ginger. One of Moreau’s finest articulations in terroir in 2020.

Exhibiting notions of citrus zest, white flowers, crisp green orchard fruit, beeswax and struck match, the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is medium to full-bodied, satiny and inactive, with tangy acids and a long, penetrating finish. The result of an exchange of grapes, it's a terrific effort.

Lots of crisp acidity and a much drier finish than most of these 2020s. Correct and fresh with real ambition – and so different from the village wine! (JR)