Aromas of sweet cherries, cassis, rich spices, incense and orange peel introduce the 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy rendition of this bottling, with a deep core of fruit and surprisingly melting tannins. Mortet's evolution in the direction of finesse coupled with the generous vintage has made for a supple, charming Clos de Vougeot that will offer uncharacteristically precocious drinking.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes 30% whole bunches this year and matures in 75% new oak. It has a very pure, almost candied bouquet with strawberry tart, raspberry preserve and pressed rose petal aromas that are neatly entwined with the new wood. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannin, orange pith and brown spices infusing the layers of red fruit. Maybe it just misses a little personality compared to some of Mortet’s other 2017s, but it is still very well balanced and stylish.