(70% new oak): Bright, deep red with ruby tones. Reticent but wild aromas of black raspberry, licorice and flowers. Plush, savory and youthfully restrained, offering a wonderfully suave grain to its purple fruit flavors. Very elegant for this cru. Finishes quite long, with enlivening acidity and serious but even tannins. Incidentally, Mortet told me that although the 2013s "don't have enormous material," the color was easy to extract due to the high level of acidity.

From 50-year-old vines that usually yield a generous 40 hectoliters per hectare, or thereabouts, the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques has a very succinct and focused bouquet with mineral notes interwoven throughout the black cherry, blueberry and iodine scents. The palate is medium-bodied and is showing some of the 60% new oak at the moment, although there is sufficient fruit to absorb it. This has fine symmetry and focus with quite a long, tender finish. This is a sublime Gevrey-Chambertin to enjoy over the ensuing two decades, possibly more.

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques is one of the most expressive wines in this range. The inclusion of 40% whole clusters lends an extra dimension of aromatic lift and nuance. Sweet red cherry, crushed rocks and mint liven up the finish in an absolutely impeccable wine loaded with pedigree. Readers who can find the 2013 should not hesitate, as it is terrific.