Typically one of the broadest-shouldered wines in the cellar, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux was lightly reduced on the day that I tasted it, unwinding in the glass to reveal plenty of red-black fruit and savory nuance. On the palate, the wine was easier to read, displaying a medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated profile, with excellent amplitude, juicy acids and a long, delineated finish. It's a definite success.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru comes from 60 to 100-year old vines, matures in 70% new oak with 30% whole bunches. That whole bunch component is very expressive on the nose: quite tertiary and stemmy in style, well defined and with a noticeable degree of transparency and airiness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, well balanced with that stemmy character prevalent throughout this Champeaux. Maybe that just overrides the terroir expression on the finish? Hence my more cautious score at the moment.