The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées is seamless and super-expressive today, with a striking interplay between elements of power and finesse. There is wonderful depth and resonance to the flavors, but also a bit more overall tension than I am accustomed to seeing here. Still, the wine's persistence and overall sense of harmony are absolutely compelling.

Bright, dark red. Slightly reduced aromas of smoke, minerals and chocolate, with a suggestion of roasted dark berries. Rich but a bit rustic for this wine, hinting at a dried berry character. Clearly reduced today (this was racked in September) but also a bit rough in its tannic texture. An awkward showing: I wanted more verve. I almost certainly caught this one on a grumpy day.

A fué may be a unit of area – may be. Intensely perfumed. Really heady and hedonistic. Transparent and lovely. Violets and such a gentle texture. Only medium weight but delightful. Great freshness. Very long and precise. (JR)