The translucent 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is another magical 2017 from this estate. Bright cherry, framboise, sappy flowers, menthol, and spice box notes all emerge from the glass, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a tight, backward texture and a great finish. It needs 4-5 years of bottle age, but it’s a gorgeous wine that’s getting close to the top of my scale.

The 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is also showing very well, though it's a little more reserved than the Ruchottes-Chambertin today, unwinding in the glass with notes of ripe cherries and berries that mingle with scents of ponies, exotic spices and loamy soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and velvety textured, with a deep and concentrated core, refined structuring tannins and a long, sapid finish. This young Clos Vougeot's structural elegance is deceptive, as this is a very serious effort built for the long haul, and it is one example of a 2017 red Burgundy that will be better on its 20th birthday than its 10th.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet that unfurls from the glass to reveal raspberry, hints of dark chocolate, cedar and undergrowth; there is a touch of mintiness here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and beautifully balanced with vivid red berry fruit, plus a liberal sprinkling of white pepper on the finish. Excellent.