One of the finest renditions of this cuvée remains the 2005 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale, a deep, elegantly fleshy, medium to full-bodied wine evocative of cherries, dark berries, espresso roast, raw cocoa and rich soil tones. Structured around ripe tannins and lively acids, it is already drinking superbly.

Still quite fresh and vibrant, the 2005 Clos de la Maréchale offers all of the luxurious radiance and intensity that makes wines from this year so appealing. Soaring floral and spiced aromatics lift the dark red and purplish fruit nicely, while beams of supporting tannin remind us we are in Nuits Saint-Georges.

Tasting note: In contrast to the expressiveness of the first two '05s, here there is a completely different aromatic profile and one that is brooding with more deeply pitched and quite ripe blue and violet aromas combining with pungent earth and game hints that continue onto the sweet, rich and sappy flavors wrapped around a firm tannic spine. This is impressive as it is clearly Nuits in character yet with refined and sophisticated structural elements. Also recommended.

(I tasted a representative blend of eight cuvees, comprising 150 barrels of wine; there will probably be a single bottling in 2005) Bright ruby-red. High-pitched, perfumed aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet; suggests Nuits-Saint-Georges in a Chambolle style. Densely packed but tightly wound and a bit youthfully clenched today, with black fruit, bitter chocolate and violet flavors supported by a firm tannic spine. A bit inscrutable today, but possesses excellent material.

Very firm dark almost blueish crimson. Vigorous, muscular wine. Massively fruity and intense. You can easily imagine it was stuffed with tannin in its early years but it is now drinkable. Really punches its way out of the glass. Mid weight with a firm finish and no shortage of acidity but not at all meagre. Full of energy. (JR)