The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru, which is usually the first to be picked, has a really delightful bouquet, very expressive and displaying fine mineralité . The precise, detailed palate is well balanced, offering mineral tension, a fine line of acidity and a crisp, vibrant finish. Superb.

I was disappointed by this bottle of Mugnier's 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale, which I ordered at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Bordeaux. Dominated by horsey, animal aromas, it was far removed from the perfumed sensuality of this domaine's wines at their best. Friends tell me they have had better recent experiences, but in principle, this bottle had been well conserved throughout its life, so it may simply be a case of varying degrees of tolerance for these particular flavors.

Bottled and has not closed down. More open and red fruited than the 2018. You could drink this while the 2016s and 2015s come round. Lively, dry and a lighter structure than in the 2018 with lovely freshness and length. A dancer not a runner/bodybuilder. Moreish with such fine structure. (JH)