There are loads of rich mineral aromas in the nose of the 2002 Batard-Montrachet. Fat, rich, and plush, it coats the palate with resin-laced minerals. Armed with gorgeous depth, concentration, purity, and focus, this boldly flavored wine is a candidate for drinking between 2006 and 2012. Michel Niellon began harvesting on the 21st of September. “It’s the first Saturday after the ban de vendange. That’s when I always harvest.” His natural potential alcohols ranged from 12.5 to 12.8%, and he describes 2002 as a year with “loads of flesh, a year to drink young or age six to eight years.” On this latest point, Niellon stressed that he enjoys his wines when they are young. “I like them on the fruit. Others can drink them however they want, but I drink wine to drink fruit. In fact,” he went on, “even though everybody loves the 1996s, I don’t like them. I like supple wines.” Niellon, like Alsace’s Olivier Humbrecht, believes that all whites should be decanted, something that readers should try at home. Personally, I have found that this is the way to go, as it allows the wines to blossom. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725

Compellingly perfumed, precise aromas of lime oil and mint. Bright and brilliantly focused, with superb limey cut. Dense and fat but also subtle and brisk. I might have picked this as Chevalier-Montrachet for its inner-mouth perfume and finesse. Long, subtle and gripping on the palate-staining finish. Potentially great.