(these degenerating vines were planted between 1917 and 1920): Noble reduction to the aromas of mirabelle , crushed herbs and meaty, smoky oak. Fat, tactile and round, showing a medicinal reserve to the pineapple and white plum flavors. A distinct tannic quality gives the finish a youthful bitter edge. Hard to taste right now and likely to evolve very slowly. Niellon will finally pull up these vines after the 2015 harvest, after discussing this subject for the past 25 years,

The 2014 Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru was much more open on the nose than the Chevalier-Montrachet from Niellon, though again it seemed quite primal and was missing the minerality of some of its peers. The palate is quite intense on the entry with touches of dried honey and quince, good weight in the mouth, yet it needs more finesse and nervosity to come through on the finish. Still, there is a nice salinity on the aftertaste, so hopefully it will find its groove in time.