Bright light yellow. Expressive nose combines pear, honey, menthol and flowers. Ripe, fine-grained and nicely concentrated, showing more gras than the Chaumées "Clos de la Truffière" but also healthy acidity and floral lift. A bit aggressive on the back end but not spiky, finishing with very good length.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie was more aromatically reticent, unwinding with notes of minty apples and toasted nuts, followed by a satiny, open-knit palate that's bright and stony but seems to be somewhat less concentrated than either the Champs Gain that preceded it or the superb Clos Saint-Jean that followed it. It may simply be closed down after its recent bottling, but it wouldn't appear to be the star of the show this year.

Smoky, matchstick aromas on the nose, lovely honeysuckle notes on the palate and crisp, precise acidity. Dry, fibrous palate with a long, bitter-lemon note to finish. Bold and cannily oaked, with the smoke and spice complementing the ripe fruit. (RH)