The superb 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts offers up a bouquet that, at this youthful stage, shares aromas of cassis, cherry, smoked duck and orange rind with Hudelot-Noëllat's Suchots, with the addition of top-notes of dried flowers and spice. On the palate, however, the wine is more layered and powerful, with a lavish core of fruit, an ample chassis of ripe tannin, and a long, dramatic finish.

(the yield here was a solid 38 hectoliters per hectare): Bright dark red. A bit oakier and higher-toned than the Beaumonts and Suchots, offering aromas of dark raspberry, spices and smoke. Plush and deep but not especially sweet, combining the dark berry notes of the Suchots and the redder fruits of the Beaumonts, with complicating notes of licorice and dark chocolate. Finishes with substantial tongue-coating, oak-driven tannins. Van Canneyt told me he normally prefers this wine early among his premier crus from Vosne-Romanée, but this vintage of Malconsorts will need time in bottle to express itself.