The 2011 Bonnes-Mares is another drop-dead gorgeous wine, although not surprisingly, it is very closed at this stage. Violets, crushed rocks, wild flowers, mint and licorice emerge gradually, but the tannins cut a broad and imposing figure. Readers need to be patient here.

(vinified with 80% whole clusters): Deep ruby-red. Musky aromas of raspberry, mocha, brushy herbs and pepper struck me as a tad syrah-like. Then tactile, chewy and dense on the palate, with outstanding tension to the flavors of raspberry, medicinal herbs, minerals and faded flowers. Finishes sweet and very long, with harmonious tannins and terrific energy and grip.

Chambolle side below de Vogüé. Very dark. Animal nose. Rich and sweet start – not the most appetising but certainly very dramatic. Spicy, cinnamon. Sort of Bonnes Mares candy. A very specific style – you’ll either love or loath. Lightly drying on the end. Almost a comedian! (JR)