Deep red-ruby. Expressive aromas of black plum, graphite, menthol and mint showed a building stoniness and a suggestion of austerity as the wine opened in the glass. Wonderfully plush and fine-grained in the middle palate, with dominant flavors of black raspberry, licorice pastille and violet. Opens out spectacularly on the back end, finishing extremely subtle and long, with noble tannins coating the mouth without leaving any weight or harshness. Displays outstanding balance--and deceptive approachability--from the outset, but has a hidden dimension that will only come out with extended cellaring. Incidentally, Bernstein thinks the 2014 version of this wine will turn out to be more delicate.

A huge wine, the 2013 Chambertin makes a strong entrance with its voluptuous fruit and pure, unbridled intensity. The Chambertin is the deepest and most resonant of the Grand Crus, but at the same time, it is wonderfully polished throughout. Layers of blue and black stone fruits are sculpted and articulate.

2012 was the first vintage of this wine. Hidden nose. Less open than Clos de Bèze. Solid and savoury but hugely long term. Really tight and layered and very savoury and uncompromising. Very dry finish. But convincing. (JR)