The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin opens with soft, subtle floral notes that lead to understated layers of blue and black fruits. The Charmes is a bit closed in on itself today, but it is a wine of significant promise. Tar, licorice and graphite wrap around the deep, satisfying finish.

Bright dark red. Reticent musky nose comes across as lower-pitched than the Cazetiers. Then smooth and supple on the palate but not yet complex, showing a dominant flavor of slightly medicinal black raspberry. This very closed wine finishes with serious chewy tannins and excellent persistence.

Lively and charming – definitely fresher than his 2009s. Rich and grainy with real savoury density even if there's a hint of treacle on the finish. Pure pleasure even if finesse is not its overriding character. Still a long way to go. (JR)