Musky red raspberry, currant and smoke on the nose and palate. Penetrating and energetic, showing attractive early balance and length. Here, too, the tannins are sweet and will not get in the way of early drinking. Bernstein plans to rack his wines into tanks in January and leave them there for two or three months prior to bottling them, in order "to not go too far with the wood." An excellent performance for this seldom-seen premier cru located under Bonnes-Mares.

Dark red cherry, spice, new leather and menthol flesh out in the 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Lavrottes. This is an especially dark Chambolle endowed with tremendous depth. The 2012 is ample and broad, with plenty of power but less in the way of Chambolle sexiness, which is not entirely surprising as Lavrottes lies just below Bonnes-Mares.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Lavrottes from Olivier Bernstein has a rich and opulent nose, not unlike an Amoureuses in some ways, though without the same complexity. The palate is medium-bodied and here the new oak is a little too conspicuous and tends to denude this pleasant Chambolle of terroir expression. It's just slightly over-egged in the winery and the finish a little too gamey. Perhaps another two or three years will help that wood to be fully absorbed?

100% new oak. Dark chestnut crimson. Very lively and appetising. Quite liqueur-like. Far from transparent! Just a tad too rich for puritans, methinks, but great for hedonists. Still quite tannic but with masses of juice. (JR)