Bright red-ruby. Very backward and closed on the nose, with hints of black fruits, mocha and game in the deep background. Very rich and sweet but youthfully clenched, with purple fruit, wild herb and spice flavors currently overshadowed by oak. Best today on the extremely long, rising, firmly tannic finish, which leaves behind a seductive violet perfume. Delivers a near-perfect balance of sweetness and acidity to support a graceful evolution in bottle.

Crushed rocks, chalk, graphite, smoke and black plums are some of the many notes that emerge from the 2012 Clos de la Roche. Here the style is distinctly mineral and savory, with less in the way of fruit, but more than enough energy and vibrancy to support years of fine drinking. The long, pulsating finish points to a bright future. This is another terrific effort from Olivier Bernstein.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has an elegant bouquet, not as energetic as Virgile Lignier's own Clos de la Roche, adorned with earthy black fruit and dried flower (iris and violet) aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet ripe raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, the tannins exerting a gentle grip in the mouth, fine structure with impressive density on the svelte and modern-style finish. Perhaps more approachable than other Clos de la Roche 2013s, yet this is still a worthy wine. Tasted September 2016.

Very dark crimson. Rich and round. Serious stuff. Drying tannins on the end but very energetic fruit in the middle. Racy and muscular. Just a little lacking in richness. (JR)