The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers stands out for its hushed, laid-back personality and sense of inner strength. Wild flowers, spices, mint and licorice meld together in a supple Burgundy that is only showing a bit of its true potential. Here, too, the style is built on class and polish. The crystalline finish is remarkably finessed, but it will be some years before the Cazetiers is fully expressive. This has really come together in bottle nicely.

Bright red-ruby. Expressive aromas of black fruits, minerals and violet, along with a full dose of sweet oak. At once creamy and sappy, plush and vibrant, with explosive dark berry and spice flavors carrying through to a penetrating, very long finish. Superb potential.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru les Cazetiers 2011 has a slightly over-extracted bouquet with animal, rather chocolaty black fruit that does not exude the essence of Burgundy. The palate is dense and sinewy, very good depth, but it lacks finesse and sophistication on the labored, rather savory finish. It does offer some sensory pleasure, but it is not such an intellectual proposition.

Very dark crimson. Pale rim. Dramatic concentration on the nose. Showy and exciting. Grainy tannins. Savoury finish. Quite demanding tannins at this point. (JR)