The expanded title of the 2013 Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru suggests that the vines have come of age. Conversely, it has an understated bouquet that comes across a little broody out of barrel, yet but delineated and very focused, furnished with wilted flower petals in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and lithe tannins, reserved at first but fanning out with conviction on the finish. There are copious black brambly fruit here mixed with minerals and subtle tertiary notes. This should turn out to be an intriguing Grand Cru.

Planted in 1961 by previous owners, so called Vieilles Vignes since 2011. A small plot that once belonged to the Remy family right in the middle of the vineyard. Between Latricières and Clos de Bèze. Not exceptional plants but pretty good. Very deep crimson. Very deep flavoured and majestic and actually showing a bit more fruit than many a Chambertin. Rich and flattering with so much ripe fruit that it stands out from most of Ponsot’s more austere wines. Pretty impressive – although almost strangely precocious for a Chambertin. (JR)