The king of the cellar is predictably the 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, and equally predictably, it was the most reserved and introverted wine in the cellar when I visited. Wafting from the glass with aromas of peonies, plums, cherries, orange rind, warm spices and rich soil tones, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with huge concentration, an elegantly muscular chassis of rich, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish.

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru (picked from 17 September) is 100% de-stemmed and was racked in May and then bottled in July 2021. It has a very perfumed bouquet of cranberry and boysenberry. It's slightly confit in style, with just a splash of balsamic in the background. The palate is medium-bodied and taut on the entry, with slightly grainy tannins and a subtle balsamic vein that keeps it on its toes. A light touch of black pepper emerges after five minutes. Not enormous depth on the finish or grip, yet considering the growing season, there is appreciable crunchiness and bite. Tasted at Ponsot's 150th anniversary vertical at the Domaine.