The 2008 Morey St. Denis Cuvée des Alouettes is a striking wine that shows the delicate, feminine side of Morey. The wine blossoms on the mid-palate as the fruit gains in textural depth and richness. Notes of salinity round out the finish.

In dramatic contrast with Ponsot’s Chambolle Charmes and village-level wines of its vintage, his 2008 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Cuvee des Alouettes is prominently gamy and decadently, complexly redolent of forest floor. Lightly-cooked purple plum offers juicy yet sweetly-ripe satisfaction, segueing into meltingly fine tannins. The finishing brightness here is slightly tart and detached, while the notes of game and woodsy undergrowth are joined by persistent hints of brown spice and pungent green herbs. This needs to knit more thoroughly – its game with its fruit elements as well its tartness with its fine tannins – but certainly displays complexity, energy, and more than ample sheer ripeness. I would want to revisit it before prognosticating as to its evolutionary future. I asked Laurent Ponsot what he though were the critical factors in avoiding the prevalent pink, under-ripe grapes scattered within the clusters of 2008 vintage Pinot Noir, whose undesirable flavors were bound to have concentrated under the influence of late September wind right along with those of the properly ripe berries. “First of all,” he replied, “you had to prune correctly, which is the beginning of everything – like being in front of a piece of wood or stone as a sculptor and beginning to carve a statue. It’s artistic – not simply something that will determine how many grapes (you end up with). After that, you focus on working with and not in opposition to nature’s cycle. Why are we always the last in Burgundy to pick their grapes? It’s because we pick on time.” In the case of 2008, that meant commencing on the eighth of October; and Ponsot’s 2007s – which taste as though they must come from a completely unfamiliar not to mention remarkably great vintage – were not picked until after the middle of September. “I wasn’t sure in early tastings,” says Ponsot about his 2008s, “that all of the elements would fit together into something harmonious.” For the most part, though, they have – at least, based on my tastings from a range of barrels in late winter. With regard to the distinctively delicious and atypical personality I discovered in Ponsot’s 2007s, readers should bear in mind that he employs some of the lowest levels of sulfur in Burgundy, so there’s no pepping-up going on here by means of dosage, which is seldom employed at all! I couldn’t help thinking as I tasted them: was this much excitement really implicit in 2007 generally and somehow the opportunity to capture it was missed at more than 90% of the addresses where I taste? Incidentally, the big news at Domaine Ponsot last year – although, Laurent Ponsot’s choice of synthetic closures for future bottlings and his remorseless pursuit of forgers and security justifiably made headlines – was that there will be Corton, Corton-Bressandes, and Corton-Charlemagne here beginning with vintage 2009. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Bright crimson. Headily scented, slightly medicinal with great concentration. A little bold and sweet rather than subtle. Almost rude and raw fruit! (JR)