The 2005 Volnay Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrees (like the Clos d’Audinac and Clos de la Bousse d’Or, a monopole) features the oldest vines in the estate’s Volnay holdings, more than half of them planted in the mid fifties. Black cherry, purple plum, pistachio, ginger, and cumin inform the nose. On the palate this offers old vines creaminess, flattering glycerin, and yet also a persistently bright freshness of black fruits. A deep, lingering, faintly caramel-inflected bitter-sweetness, spice, and chalk further testifies to the concentration in this wine, which surpasses the Bousse d’Or in structure and gives it a hard run for its money in the charm department. Check on this in 8-10 years but then figure on another decade of improvement in the cellar. Also recommended: 2005 Volnay Caillerets ($104.00; 86+?). In the decade since the ambitious and conscientious Patrick Landanger (who just bought an estate in the Douro, whence he was headed the Sunday we met) purchased Pousse d’Or, he has expanded the holdings to include parcels in Corton and Puligny Caillerets, and made huge investments in the vineyards and cellar. Not surprisingly given nature’s role, the 2005s – which he called unproblematic in every respect – look to set new quality standards for his tenure. Landanger says he was very sparing with punch-downs this year and entirely eschews pump-overs because he never pumps (and thus doesn’t filter either). The wines had just been bottled, and a couple of them appeared to be laboring under the effects of this (or at least of the sulfur administered beforehand). Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Dark crimson, harsh rhubary nose. Some slight sweetness of fruit but masses of acidity dominates. Good weight even if not terribly Volnay. (JR)