(Colin lost 55% of the crop here, which he described as "very good for the vintage"): Bright pale yellow. Fresh, ripe aromas of nectarine and ginger. At once rich and juicy, showing more texture and breadth than the Chatenière as well as piquant stony lift. Finishes with very good length and a slightly edgy crushed-rock character.

The 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is quite elegant and open-knit this year, though I can imagine it gaining weight and depth with a bit of bottle age. The wine unfurls in the glass with notes of apples, green pear, iodine and hazelnut cream, followed by a medium-bodied, supple and delicately textural palate framed by deftly judged acids.

Very sunny spot. Particularly calcareous with white soils and vines 45 and 20 years old. Can suffer in hot, dry summers such as 2015. Pale straw. Really quite delicate on the nose. Bone-dry end. Tingly and refined. Lots of vivacity but not that much density. (JR)