The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Pierre-Yves Colin is fabulous, and one of the white wines of the vintage. The youthfully reserved bouquet blossoms in the glass, revealing notes of preserved lemon, petrol, beeswax, toasted nuts and white flowers, continuing to gain in detail and complexity over the course of several days. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with immense depth and substance, bright acids, and a tight-knit core. For all its power and chewy extract, this is in fact a decidedly reserved, harmonious wine which deserves prolonged aging. Though he doesn't own them, Pierre-Yves farms these 90-year-old vines in Bâtard (on the Chassagne side, but bordering Puligny), and they clearly knew how to handle the heat in 2015.

(this was the ripest fruit in 2015 at 13.7% potential alcohol, according to Colin, who noted that the berries were small, highly concentrated and clean): Bright lemon-yellow. Very reticent nose hints at ripe yellow peach, lemon oil and hawthorn. Great concentration and thickness without weight; more voluminous than any of Colin's premier crus, conveying a broad, silky texture to its ripe stone fruit flavors. Not yet penetrating; in fact, this is still almost monolithic owing to its baby fat.

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, which incidentally Pierre-Yves served after and not before his Chevalier-Montrachet, has a tightly wound bouquet: citrus fruit, a touch of fennel and clove. The palate is very well balanced with more roundness and richness than the Chevalier on the entry. I love the subtle honeyed theme interwoven into this Bâtard, with just a hint of creme brûlée towards the long finish. Just a lovely wine to drink over the next decade.