Colin-Morey's 2011 Meursault Perrieres is round, seamless and strikingly beautiful. At the same time, there is plenty of power in the glass, yet the style remains one built more on volume than minerality, which is not entirely surprising, considering this plot is on the lower slopes of the hill. There is a lot to like here. The intensely perfumed finish in particular of note.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres, which comes from 45-year-old vines located upon the lower reaches of the climat, has a very complex bouquet: bashful for the first minute or so but then expanding beautifully with wilted petals and a hint of wild honey. The palate is crisp and taut on the entry, demonstrating a little more weight and penetration than the Genevrieres, with suggestions of toffee and even a dab of white chocolate on the long, tender finish. This just has a fabulous texture and will be fascinating to watch evolve. Drink 2015-2030. Following last issue’s “amuse bouche,” I could not miss an opportunity to visit Pierre-Yves at his winery in the village of Chassagne to take a look at his 2011s. “I like the 2011s because they give a lot of pleasure when they are young,” he said to me. “But I think they could age very well. The wines are on the ripe side – a bit like 2001 or maybe 2002. But I think it is a complete vintage. Personally, I prefer 2010 which is more on the mineral side, but the 2011s appeal to a wider audience, and in a way, bring people to Burgundy. When the customers come to the estate, they seem to have never heard about the 2011 vintage and so they do not know what to expect. But when they taste them they were quite easy to sell.” Pierre-Yves 2011s do not disappoint, mostly imbued with the delineation and poise we have come to expect from this top-tier producer who demonstrates that you do not necessarily have to own all your vines to create exceptional wines. We briefly discussed his move away from new oak and he admitted that perhaps during his initial vintages he was trying to impress. That is only natural. He has retreated from the cooperage to employ a minimal amount of new wood and things are about to change again. He had just taken delivery of two 11-hectolitre wooden troconic tanks that he will trial with the 2013 vintage, probably on one of the St. Aubin wines such as En Remilly. I cannot wait to taste the results. The Chassagne-Montrachets underwent a longer elevage than the St. Aubins and were bottled two months prior to my visit in July 2013. Importer: Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 343-4054