The 2017 Chablis is beautifully pure, but also classically austere, which of course won't be an issue in time, but should be a consideration for readers who want something to drink now. The orchard fruit, citrus, mint and floral notes are very nicely delineated, especially for a village-level wine. I came back to the Chablis after all the Grand Crus. While it was obviously not at the same level, the village more than held its own. The 2017 is an impressive wine by any measure. It is a stellar wine. Readers who can find it should jump.

They lost one-third of the crop to frost in 2017. Vines at the bottom of slope, where the soils are richer but cooler. Goes through malo. Sour cream and oats. Kumquats. A nuttiness. Edgy on one side, creamy on the other with a smoky tangerine-tight acidity that runs through the core. This is lovely right now but has so much energy and vibrancy that it also has a long life ahead of it. (TC)