Raveneau’s 2006 Chablis Les Clos offers a mysterious profusion of floral, nobly fungal, and mineral aromas. Gripping phenolics and tactile mineral intensity – chalk, tangerine and grapefruit zest, white pepper – are imbedded in a lusciously rich yet fresh white peach and citrus matrix so vivid I almost expected to find pulp in the bottom of my glass. In its elegant, shimmering interplay of mineral and fruit dimensions and scintillating, bitter-sweet floral perfume, and nut oils – all allied to tactile grip – this reminds me also of a great Riesling or Gruner Veltliner from the Wachau’s Achleiten. But the specific manifestations of fruit, flowers, and minerals here could only be realized in Chablis. The empty glass is mesmerizing, almost magic. Bernard Raveneau is an unabashed partisan of his 2005s – and no wonder, based on the subset of those that I tasted, including a magnificent Valmur which he rightly terms “complete” and “close to his ideal.” Raveneau is less effusive in praise of his 2006s – each of which I tasted from a selection of barrels – opining that lavish fruit and richness are precisely this collection’s fortes. I think he underestimates the depth of his own 2006s, and only hope I have opportunity to revisit some of them in five or ten years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale yellow-green color. Wonderfully precise if closed nose offers highly complex aromas of musky white peach, lime, white truffle and vanilla, along with a metallic nuance; almost 2007-like in its lift. Then wonderfully suave on entry, with a near-painful mid-palate intensity to its peach, stone, mineral and floral flavors. Strong stony minerality accentuates the wine's impression of acidity, framing the palate-staining finishing flavors of citrus peel and crushed stone and giving powerful grip to the very long aftertaste.

A white flower, exotically ripe yellow peach and pear suffused nose also reveals wafts of quinine and sea breeze that transition into powerful, full and exceptionally rich flavors that are almost chewy they're so textured and the finish really soaks the palate with dry extract. This is a big and muscular example yet it's also elegant and refined as it carries its size effortlessly. One of the wines of the '06 vintage and as great as it is, I don't find that extra dimension that I usually do relative to the Valmur. Still, you won't find two better '06 Chablis anywhere.

Smoky-fresh, classic mature Chablis nose. Sleek and beautifully balanced. Very creamy and sophisticated. It went as well with the Chaource as with the rough-cut jambon persillé. (JR)