A discreet touch of wood frames exceptionally fresh and bright aromas of ripe citrus, oyster shell, tangerine and white flower that are very much in keeping with the refined, detailed and quite powerful middle weight flavors that are a good deal less evolved compared to the rest of the range and culminate in a palate staining finish. I like the underlying material and in 2009 this massive yet perfectly balanced effort is the star of the cellar. Drink 2017+. - October 2011

It’s all there in the 2009 Chablis Les Clos. White flowers, lime peel, oyster shells and petrol are some of the nuances the run through the wine. Les Clos possesses a striking inner perfume, layers of expressive fruit and a sumptuous, kaleidoscopic finish. This is a stunning effort from Raveneau. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. (Not yet released) Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village’s uncontested superstars. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of pineapple, crushed stone and spicy oak (Bernard Raveneau noted that this cuvee was aged in a bit more new oak than the rest). Lovely creamy pineapple and marzipan flavors display full ripenes but are given grip and energy by excellent harmonious acidity. The silkiest and deepest of these 2009s. Finishes very long and tactile, with a distinctly tannic impression that leaves the mouth a bit dry. This very rich, powerful wine will require patience.

Mealy and not as crisp as some vintages. Mind you, it suffered from having to follow Dagueneau's Pur Sang 2010. Broad and alcoholic. Wait for a bit of puppy fat to go? (JR)