Pale color. Reticent aromas of citrus peel, white stone fruits and oyster shell, plus a suggestion of oak spice (the Raveneaus used "more recent" oak barrels for this wine and their Montee de Tonnerre in 2012, according to Bernard). Sappy and alive in the mouth, with terrific mineral lift to the flavors of white peach, apple and dusty stone. Finishes bright and long, with subtle lime and mineral nuances. This was splendid from the barrel a year ago and it's every bit as strong following the recent bottling.

The 2012 Chablis Butteaux is one of the more ethereal and elusive wines in this range. Intensely floral and lifted in style, the 2012 wafts across the palate with notable delicacy in its aromas and flavors. Today, the Butteaux appears to be shut down and not really in a mood to show all of its cards. The style, though, appears to be on the lighter side.