The 2010 Meursault Poruzots-Dessus comes across as quite cool and inward. Today, it is the wine’s minerality that dominates the balance. From time to time the fruit begins to emerge, but ultimately, the 2010 remains pretty closed. A finish laced with substantial energy and tension makes me hopeful for the future, but the 2010 clearly needs time to settle down as it was bottled in March 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Remi Jobard describes the 2010s as having the richness of the 2009s and the elegance of the 2008s. I suppose that’s as good a description as any. Jobard began bringing in his 2010s on September 21. Yields are down a whopping 40-50%, but in exchange Jobard has a superb set of wines that are rich yet not at all heavy. It is a vintage in which the personality of each of these sites comes through in spades. As I mentioned last year, Jobard is among the small but growing number of white Burgundy producers experimenting with foudres, which seems to work especially well with his wines. The Narvaux, Genevrieres, Poruzots are partly aged in foudre, while the Charmes is done entirely in foudre. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Quite a heavy nose. Reverberant. Lively but not exactly profound on the palate. Tense finish. Should get there eventually as all the ingredients are there. But it is relatively subtle. (JR)