The 2009 Meursault Perrieres is a mode of coolness. It possesses tons of energy in Reserve. With time in the glass hints of slate, crushed rocks, lime and white flowers start to take shape, suggesting the direction this profound wine is headed in over the coming years. The Perrieres is simply breathtaking for its clarity and precision. Like a finely cut diamond, there is always something new to discover. The finish is beyond eternal. This is not an immediate wine, but rather a bottle that will handsomely repay patience. I hope to have a chance to revisit this in a few years’ time, as it is nothing short of utterly profound. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Jean-Marc Roulot is one of the most thoughtful, introspective growers in Burgundy, so it is hardly a surprise his 2009s are so sublime. The domaine has grown to 15 hectares as of the 2011 harvest. Roulot was among a group of investors including Dominique Lafon who purchased Domaine Rene Manuel from Laboure-Roi. Readers can look forward to two new wines from Roulot a Meursault Clos de la Baronne, Meursault Clos de Bouchere, plus a little more production of the Poruzots. Roulot was among the first to harvest, and started picking on September 1st. Accodring to Roulot, the optimal window for picking has become much narrower with today’s increasingly warmer growing seasons. Roulot told me he prefers 2009 to 2008 as the fruit was healthier, with no botrytis or other issues, which resulted in wines of greater focus. The 2009s spent 12 months in oak followed by 6 months in steel with very light and infrequent batonnage. The Bourgogne saw less than 10% new barrels, while the village wines saw 15-18% new barrels and the premier crus 25-30% new barrels. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010s as they were in full malolactic fermentation. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and imported by: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Crushed stone, ginger and smoky minerality; this and the Charmes are quite classic on the nose. Then fat, rich and ripe in the mouth, with an almost oily quality and a chewy texture to its palate-saturating ginger and stone flavors. Wonderfully dense and tactile wine with the volume of a great cru. This positively vibrates with energy and sap. Finishes with outstanding mineral persistence. A great Perrieres in the making, and with the balance for a slow evolution in bottle: 13.2% alcohol, 4.15 grams per liter of acidity and pH of 3.15. These vines were picked three days before the Charmes.

Putty nose. A little more ethereal than some of the Roulot cuvées actually. Very substantial with lots of gas and tingle and maybe not the intensity and energy of the Lafon and Leflaive I have tasted already but certainly very competent. Solid. (JR)