The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières looks set to rank as one of Jean-Marc Roulot's all-time greats, and while it is still youthful, its incredible potential is already clear to see. A classic bouquet of citrus zest, white flowers, chalky soil tones and blanched almond introduce a searingly intense wine that marries striking cut and vertical tension with wonderful glossy amplitude and dimension, its tongue-tingling minerality persisting through the long, penetrating finish. A benchmark example of Roulot's singular style.

The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru les Perrières is not a million miles away from Dominique Lafon's own Perrières: brilliant delineation with cold stone (flint and wet limestone) and a touch of smoke. The palate is beautifully balanced with great depth and amplitude, the acidity perfectly judged with an incredibly long, saline finish. God invented Chardonnay so that He could drink wines like this.

Pungent aromas of lemon, pineapple, minerals and oak spices. Sappy and energetic, conveying outstanding purity and cut thanks to penetrating minerality. A wine of uncanny precision and lift, this extremely young Perrières is already an outstanding, complete wine but should gain in nuance and length with bottle aging. Another Perrières at grand cru level in 2014.

In the middle of Dessous. 'We can say 12.5 or 13 but have no right to say 12.55. Law is idiotic.' A little shy on the nose, quite rich and sweet. Lots of concentration. Big and bold. Masses of chew. Not very showy on the nose at the moment but with masses of depth. Very rich without being very alcoholic. (JR)