One of the wines of the vintage, the 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is more reticent than the Clos des Bouchères but displays even more potential. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of lemon and lime zest, acacia honey, beeswax and crushed chalk, the wine is medium to full-bodied, concentrated and searingly intense with a satiny attack and a seamless, multidimensional but tight-knit core, concluding with a tongue-tinglingly mineral finish. This is an immensely good Meursault Perrières that will demand and reward extended bottle age. Roulot ranks it slightly behind the 2014, but it isn't far from the level of that wine.

Tank sample. Stony/chalky on the nose, much less opulent on the nose then the Clos des Bouchères. Flinty and smoky. On the palate, an acid tension, almost a sour-spicy grapefruit, and a steely core with lovely alignment. Goes on for ever. Utterly precise and tightly structured but no lack of fruit. Perfect balance. (JH)