The Meursault les Vireuils ’10 possesses a show-stopping bouquet that is more reminiscent of say, a Puligny Cailleret, its rich precocious fruit not obfuscating its granitic personality. There is astonishing clarity on the palate that is delicate and pretty, subtle citrus and peach on the entry that segues into a more terse, slate-like finish. This is an outstanding Meursault that should evolve beautifully over the next 10 to 15 years. Tasted March 2013.

(these vines were harvested late, according to Roulot): Subtle citrussy nose. At once tactile and juicy, with excellent mineral spine to support the lemon and pineapple flavors. The very long, stony finish shows the combination of sweetness and energy of the vintage's better examples.

The 2010 Meursault Les Vireuils is quite open in this vintage. There is a level of richness in the fruit that is quite unusual for Vireuils. At the same time, the finish is a bit attenuated. White stone fruits, pears, flowers, smoke and slate flow through to the finish. I find a bit less energy than is typically the case. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. (Not yet released) Jean-Marc Roulot commented that 2010 was easy in the vineyard but not so simple in the cellar, mostly because of very long malolactic fermentations that did not finish until the following August! The harvest started on September 17 and the wines came in with 12.8 -13.5 natural alcohols, which is at the higher end of the range for the domaine. Because of the lengthy malos, the 2010s were bottled a little later than normal. The 2010s are quite representative of the year in that they have considerable richness and at the same time high acidities. They are remarkably vivid, expressive to site and flat-out gorgeous. Readers will notice a new wine in 2010, the Auxey-Duresses, and can look forward to a new Clos de la Baronne and Clos des Boucheres with the 2011 vintage. Roulot fans will also want to be on the look out for Jean-Marc Roulot’s new line of eau de vies, an old family tradition that goes back many generations. The Framboise is one of the most pure expressions of fruit I have ever tasted, while the Abricot, made from Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave’s organically grown apricots in St. Joseph, is a bit more honeyed and liqueur-like.Unfortunately, my bottle of the Poire eau de vie broke, but I hope to be able to taste it soon. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524