The 2018 Meursault Vireuils is showing nicely in bottle, unwinding in the glass with hints of crisp Anjou pear, citrus oil, nutmeg and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and incisive, with a pretty core of fruit underpinned by a racy spine of acidity, it concludes with a chalky, penetrating finish. This is a fine success that I suspect will show even better with a few years in bottle, even if it's deceptively charming right now.

Picked 5 September. Mid slope thus cooler than the sites that supply the straight Meursault. The last parcels to be harvested. 8–10% new oak. Tank sample. Smoky, mealy nose from poor chalky soil. A touch of struck match but under that there’s ripe, cedary citrus. Powerful, mouth-watering, cedary. Power and freshness. Quite a grip to the texture – in a good way. (JH)